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I used to cover my eyebrows with glue in the bathroom at work, so I wouldn’t be late to the gig!” “ Drag is usually a late-night activity because most kings and queens have day jobs. In many cases, making ourselves truly visible can even open up real danger.” In the case of Velour’s line of work, it’s also a question of economic necessity.
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“ Very few queer people have the freedom to deliver their full queerness during the day. Why is nightlife, whether performance or club-oriented, especially important to queer communities? “ Often we have no choice but to build our spaces and culture in the dead of night!” she says.
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Elsewhere, Ashish’s glitz and neon affair could have been lifted from a 1990s rave (and came with a series of messages about inclusivity – ones made especially resonant in the wake of the designer’s powerful words the week before on the decriminalisation of homosexuality in India).\ Pugh’s tribute to Blame culminated in a Vogueing Ball in his honor, in collaboration with Benjamin Milan – a fitting send-off for someone who figured so vividly in London’s nightlife. Givenchy aside, it’s interesting how many of SS19’s explicitly queer-inspired offerings are also inextricably linked with what goes on after dark. More recently, Preen’s pre-fall 2019 drew on a visit to Sissinghurst Castle, where Sackville-West lived, by way of tartans, checks, lavish drapery and plenty of feather trim. During Christopher Bailey’s tenure at Burberry, Woolf was often cited to conjure up a particular kind of thick cardigan-clad bohemianism – culminating in his SS17 show, hooked on her novel Orlando, the theatrical ruffs and swishing coats riffing on a protagonist who switches gender, loves both men and women, and was very much an adoring tribute to the physicality and temperament of Sackville-West. There’s an impish exuberance to the clothes and headpieces, many of which wouldn't look out of place at Andrew Logan’s Alternative Miss World competition (which, incidentally, Jarman won in 1975, under the moniker Miss Crepe Suzette).Įlsewhere, authors Virginia Woolf and Vita Sackville-West – whose exquisite, funny love letters deserve reissuing – have been called upon repeatedly. He knew what he was making was a construct.” Jarman’s DIY spirit and anti-establishment ethos comes through strongly in Bovan’s collection: from the clash of fabrics and textures – layers of netting erupting from dresses, screen-printed words proclaiming “ Infinite Void” sliding across garments – to the cascades of crocheted flowers and bright plastic cable ties. He told a story with film and always had his tongue in his cheek. “ I loved his sense of 'just get on with it' – no lavish budgets, and he collaborated with friends to create something raw and something new. Bovan first discovered Jarman’s films aged 19 after moving to London. Outspoken in his sexuality (and particularly trailblazing in his level of public honesty around his AIDs diagnosis), Jarman’s legacy remains a powerful one, both creatively and politically. “This was about two women who dressed to be who they fundamentally were.”Įlsewhere in London, Bovan turned to Jarman, the mischievous, multitalented, deliciously frank film-maker and writer. “ For me every season it’s less about exactly who the characters were but the trigger that causes you to go there with the collection,” he says. The results are gorgeous: an appropriately theatrical profusion of lace, lavish prints, black net veils, voluminous skirts, puffed sleeves and bright pink ribbons galore.
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Using this as his starting point, Erdem researched the rich history of 19 th-century cross-dressing – looking, too, at female performers who donned men’s clothes on stage. They were well-known nightlife characters in London.” They were living very much on the fringe of society. “ Fanny and Stella lived at a time when Darwinism was rife and the Republican movement was rising. “ When I started to research their story I was fascinated,” he says. Erdem first discovered their narrative after finding a plaque dedicated to the pair in Bloomsbury, where he and his partner Philip live.